In Ómós do Eoin (Part III): Keeping Promises

Colby Holtz is a student at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln and a Featured Blogger. He is interning with ISA in Dublin, Ireland.

When my grandpa, Jon, sat down with my family to let us know that he would be entering hospice care, he told us some of his wishes, including his intention of being cremated. Knowing that the favorite part of the Ireland trip he cherished so much was visiting the Cliffs of Moher, I told him that I would spread his ashes there. He responded by stating would really love and appreciate that, and we shared an emotional embrace. Jon mentioned this gesture to me a few times in his subsequent last weeks, so I knew this needed to be an integral part of my trip.

Flash-forward to over a year later, and I’m standing on the paths at the cliffs courtesy of the bus tour to Galway from Dublin I purchased. A trip to Galway and the Cliffs of Moher was a non-negotiable for my time in Ireland so I could have this sentimental moment. I was waiting for the wind to die down so I could solemnly pour some ashes onto the ground that was chest-level next to me on the other side of the barrier. I took advantage of the first chance I had and kept the promise I made to Jon not long ago.

Me, posing in front of the famous Cliffs of Moher.

As my time in Ireland neared its conclusion, I woke up one morning and dedicated a full day to my grandpa. I started by taking a bus into the Dublin Mountains and going on a hike to find a megalithic tomb. I found these ancient landmarks to be very unique, and there were a myriad of them in Ireland to choose from. They typically look like rock formations, nicknamed by one of my tour guides as “our mini Stonehenges,” and are assumed to be prehistoric burial or ritual sites. After a shorter walk than expected, I arrived at Ballyedmonduff Megalithic Tomb. I spread the rest of Jon’s ashes there so he could rest in a spot where people have been remembered for centuries.

I also had a desire to golf during my time here, but the world-famous courses with tee times being booked months in advance were simply outside of my budget. As an alternative, I continued the day by bussing down to a local pitch-and-putt course where I could rent the two clubs I needed. My grandpa taught me how to golf, and I’m certain he’d be insanely jealous at the fact that I even got to swing a club in Ireland, regardless of the course.

Views of Ballyedmonduff Megalithic Tomb and the Dublin Mountains.

One of my recent personal excursions included a day trip to Belfast in the north of Ireland. Both of my grandparents are responsible for my fascination with politics, so I was looking forward to this specifically because of my interest in the region’s sectarian nature, its long past of unlawful occupation, and the everlasting conflict between Catholics and Protestants in the area.

I took a tour spanning the city’s different areas, landmarks, and murals while learning of their significance from a sweet old gentleman who lived through a violent conflict commonly known as “The Troubles.” Hearing about this historical time period that I’ve researched so deeply from someone who had first-hand experience dealing with the oppression of Irish Catholics was immensely impactful. After this, I also got to see the northern coast, including Giant’s Causeway, a prominent geological landmark.

Belfast mural dedicated to Irish liberation leaders and the 1916 Easter Rising.

My last day trip involved an adventure around the illustrious Ring of Kerry, where I indulged in phenomenal views of Ireland’s countryside in the southwest. I was treated to amazing sights, a great meal, and perfect photo opportunities while hearing about the quirks and intricacies of little Irish villages from the tour guide while passing through them, something I know Jon would’ve gotten a kick out of.

Me, in front of the picture-perfect lakes of Killarney National Park.

When I landed in Dublin, I never imagined I would see and experience this much of Ireland. I can confidently state that I’ve gotten the absolute most I possibly could have out of this trip. I stayed in the east in Dublin and travelled up and down its coast, first went south to Cork and kissed the Blarney Stone, hiked Howth and Glendalough nearby, ventured to the rural central town of Athlone where my ancestors come from, journeyed north to Belfast, continued west to Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, and finally ended with a loop around the Ring of Kerry in the southwest corner of the country.

I was able to take advantage of every opportunity that presented itself, leaving no regrets behind or bucket list items unchecked. I covered a ton of ground in a relatively short period of time, and as I sit on my plane home writing this conclusion to my last piece from my time abroad, my heart is full knowing that I kept my promise and spent this time living how Jon would have.

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